Update 3/4/21: Take note that this guide is for the traditional course and does not reflect the Covid-modified course and its major changes for 2020 and 2021 Cayuga Trails.
The Cayuga Trails 50 has quickly become one of the northeast's premier ultrarunning events. Race Director Ian Golden created the race in 2013 under his Red Newt Racing brand. The event was conceived as a way to draw runners to the Ithaca area to immerse themselves in the beauty of Ithaca's best trails and to experience the community that Ithaca is known for. Ian added a marathon to the event in 2016 to increase participation. Since 2014, the race has served as the USATF 50-Mile Trail Championship, making it a selection race for Team USA to compete at the IAU Trail World Championship. There is also a large cash purse up for grabs, overall awards, raffles, and in-race premiums from the race director himself, and additional USATF awards for overall and age-group winners. What's more, the 50M is part of the new Empire State Triad — a three race series that includes Many on the Genny and Twisted Branch and has a ranking system for finishers off all three.
The course circumnavigates Ithaca's two state parks, Robert H. Treman and Buttermilk Falls, both of which are popular destinations among hikers, tourists, and vacationers. The parks' trails offer up some of the nicest scenery on the east coast, traversing through, over, and around dozens of waterfalls, gorges surrounded by natural stone walls, ravines, old growth forests, and a lake. The course crosses over a small dam, runs past a historic stone mill, and traverses trails built by the Civilian Conservation Corp in the 1930s. The route encompasses a wide variety of terrain, including singletrack and doubletrack trails with varying degrees of technicality, stone stair cases, several creek crossing, a few paved and dirt road sections, rolling hills, and one very steep, switchback-laden climb. Most of the course is runnable, but constantly having to change gears and adjust your stride can be very challenging.
I live a few miles from these trails, run them regularly throughout the year, and have run the CT50 each of the past four years. I find the race challenging but highly rewarding, and always come away with some new friends. The purpose of this guide to give runners an idea of what to expect on each section of the course, with a reasonable amount of detail. For event rules, announcements, logistics, etc., you should consult the race website and/or detailed pre-race e-mail.
Note: This post was updated 7/16/18 to reflect course changes for 2018. The course is always marked thoroughly with flags, arrows, and chalk; I reference trail names and colored blazes in this guide to provide direction during training runs. I'll update with additional photos of the trails when I am able to get them.
The course essentially runs 12.5 miles from lower Treman out to the base of Buttermilk Falls, then 12.5 miles back. Marathoners do this once, and 50-milers twice. Some of the inbound portion of the loop overlaps with the outbound portion and some of it is different. There are three aid stations on the loop and you'll reach two of them twice. 50-milers will have
an additional aid station at the start/finish area as they finish their first loop and prepare for their second. The means five total aid stations for the marathon and 11 for the 50-mile.
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| Some of the park trails are awkward wooden or stone steps... |
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| ...while some is technical and rooty... |
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| ...and other parts are smooth and fast. |
The race is headquartered at the North Shelter pavilion, near the lower entrance to Robert Treman State Park. There is no vehicle entry fee before 9:00 a.m., so if you're running the race you won't have to pay for park admission. The 6:00 a..m. start for the 50-mile is late enough that you won't need a headlamp, although one could be useful if you show up at 5:00 for packet pickup. There is ample parking adjacent to the starting line, and drop bags can left in designated spots for volunteers to transport to any/all of the aid stations. Runners also have the option to camp at the park within walking distance of the start. To save some time, Finger Lakes Running Company in downtown Ithaca always hosts packet pickup the day before the race.
Elevation
Elevation change and distance will vary somewhat due to fluctuations in GPS accuracy. Parts of the course consist of sharply winding trails and gorges with high stone walls on both sides, which limits the accuracy of GPS signals. For the 2017 race, my Suunto Ambit 2 measured 8,451 feet of gain and 50.6 miles while set to the best possible accuracy — 1-second recording interval and 16-hour battery life. When loaded into Strava, it became 9,495 feet in 50.6 miles. As you can see from the elevation chart, this is not a mountainous or high altitude race, but it's my no means flat. Some minor course changes for 2018 will alter the numbers slightly, but overall this should still be pretty accurate.
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| 2017 elevation chart, taken from Strava. |
Aid Stations
There are three aid stations on the loop and you'll reach two of them twice. 50-milers will have an additional aid station at the start/finish area as they finish their first loop and prepare for their second. The means five total aid stations for the marathon and 11 for the 50-mile. This is trail running, so distances listed are approximate but as accurate as I'm able to measure. Your watch may show something different.
| 50-Mile | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Aid Station | Distance | ||
| 1: Old Mill | 3.9 (3.8) | ||
| 2: Underpass | 3.6 (7.5) | ||
| 3: Buttermilk | 5.4 (12.9) | ||
| 4: Underpass | 5.6 (18.5) | ||
| 5: Old Mill | 3.6 (22.1) | ||
| 6: North Shelter | 3.9 (26.0) | ||
| 7: Old Mill | 2.9 (28.9) | ||
| 8: Underpass | 3.6 (32.5) | ||
| 9: Buttermilk | 5.4 (37.9) | ||
| 10: Underpass | 5.6 (43.5) | ||
| 11: Old Mill | 3.6 (47.1) | ||
| Finish: North Shelter | 2.9 (50.0) | ||
| Marathon | |||
|---|---|---|---|
| Aid Station | Distance | ||
| 1: Old Mill | 3.8 (3.8) | ||
| 2: Underpass | 3.6 (7.5) | ||
| 3: Buttermilk | 5.4 (12.9) | ||
| 4: Underpass | 5.6 (18.5) | ||
| 5: Old Mill | 3.6 (22.1) | ||
| Finish: North Shelter | 3.9 (26.0) | ||
Gear Recommendations
As always, you should stick with whatever gear you've trained with and become familiar with. Never try anything new on race day. That being said, I have a few recommendations specific to this course that have worked for me and some of the other runners I know. Note: I have no formal affiliation with any of these brands or products.
Buy local! Before shopping online, please check with your local running specialty store for availability. These stores are pillars in their respective local running communities and need your support to stay in business and continue giving back to the sport. Note: Most of these products can be purchased at or through Finger Lakes Running Company in Ithaca. The store also hosts Cayuga Trails packet pickup the day before the race. (Full disclosure: I'm a sales associate at the store.)
Shoes
The 50M will have a minimum of four creek crossings where your feet will get wet. (Two for the marathon.) Given the frequency, changing shoes and/or socks after each crossing isn't worth the time or effort. Choose shoes that drain water quickly. If you're unsure about a shoe's ability to drain and dry, google it and read some reviews. Better yet, test it out by running through streams during your training runs. The first creek crossing is 7.6 miles into the race; running the rest of the way with soggy feet will only make you more miserable as time goes on.
Some quick-to-drain shoes I've worn on this course include the Salomon Sense Ride (which I'll be running in this year), the Salomon Sense Pro, the Altra Superior, and the Saucony Peregrine.
The terrain is moderately technical in some places and lightly or non- technical in many others. There's usually very little mud, so a shoe with a super aggressive outsole (like the Peregrine) isn't necessary. I've even seen a few runners tackle the 50M in road shoes. Gaiters aren't necessary since there won't be much loose debris or crunchy leaves on the course during the summertime.
Poles
I'll admit I'm inexperienced with trekking poles, but they really seem unnecessary for this race. There's only one place on the course where poles would be beneficial in any way — the steep, half-mile climb up Lick Brook at miles 8 and 33. The rest of the tougher climbs are on stairs and stone surfaces, making the use of poles much more difficult. I've seen a few runners use poles at Lick Brook but most go without.
If you do decide to use poles, logistics are tricky. The best option is to stash them in your drop-bag or leave with your crew and pick them up at The Underpass Aid Station. Crewed runners can then hand the poles off to their crew when they cross Town Line Road at the top of Lick Brook. If this isn't an option, they're stuck carrying the poles until they reach their next drop-bag. Another option for 50-milers is to carry them until they reach The Underpass again ( a distance of 11 miles), then stash them in the same drop-bag to be picked up again later on Loop 2.
Hydration
Aid stations are relatively close in distance, so you won't need a ton of water. The fastest one-third or so of the field is probably fine with a single handheld. Those that move slower will need more water and should consider a second handheld, a waist belt, or a pack, in order to carry more than 20 oz. Instead of distance between aid stations, estimate your time between each one and plan accordingly. On a hot day you'll be moving slower and drinking more frequently.
My preferred hydration method is to carry a 20 oz. Ultimate Direction handheld while wearing the Salomon S-Lab Advanced Skin Belt to hold my own gels and nutrition. (The belt includes a soft flask bottle but I'll run without it.) There are no rock scrambles on the course where you'd need both hands free.
If you get desperate, there are a few water fountains along the course in Buttermilk Falls State Park at miles 11.4, 12.1, and 14.5. Look for the bathrooms — there's a fountain outside each one.
Additional Info
Race Website
2018 Pre-race Info
Jason Mintz's preview of the 2018 front-runners
My race reports: 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017
Mountain Peak Fitness video recap (2015)
Red Newt Racing video (2015)
Red Newt Racing trailer
Trail Runner Magazine article (2014)
Race Photos: 2016 | 2017
The Course
Start to Old Mill (3.9 miles)
The start/finish line is located right outside the North Shelter on the paved sidewalk. Start off by running through the grass, then cross the paved park road for a gentle ascent up the wide service road on loose gravel. At the top of the service road, take two lefts around two different gates as the gravel surface becomes grass. At mile 0.75, merge to the left onto the Gorge Trail. Hopefully by now the field will have spread out some, so there won't be a bottleneck as the path narrows to a doubletrack trail. If you've ever run Lucifer's Crossing you'll be familiar with the next several miles. Miles 0.3 to 6.3 of Lucifer's are nearly identical to the first six of Cayuga Trails.
This section has some gentle rollers, a few spots with a lot of twisted roots, and some stairs. One of the wooden stair cases is longer and steeper climb than the rest — all but the elites should walk it and save their legs for later. 50-milers shouldn't see too many hikers here on their first loop, but this trail will be crowded by late morning. Remember to be courteous, as some hikers might not even be aware there's a race going on.
As you ascend the Gorge Trail the dirt surface will switch to solid rock. The upper part of the Gorge Trail is one of the most scenic spots on the course — you'll see Lucifer Falls on your left, cascading down 115 feet. You'll climb a bunch more stone stairs. Find a good rhythm and you can run these stairs with little difficulty. Pay attention to your footing though, as the trail can be slick if the rock surface is wet, and remember to put on your game face for the photographers. Some of the best race photos are from this section since it's early enough that you're still feeling fresh. The Gorge Trail finally flattens out at the top. Maneuver around the stone wall as the trail narrows. (On your second loop be careful here — their might be people coming in the opposite direction around the corner.)
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| The longer stairway. |
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| Halfway up the Gorge Trail. |
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| You're almost out of the gorge. |
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| The Red Pine Trail starts the 1-mile mini-loop. |
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| The Gorge Trail, as seen from the opposite side. |
When you come to the stone bridge on your right, a volunteer will direct you across the bridge and through the picnic area to head up the Red Pine Trail. Both race distances will follow this mini-loop on the inbound and outbound portions, but 50-milers will skip this part on Loop 2. The ascent up Red Pine has some roots and a smooth layer of pine needles, and isn't too steep that it can't be run. At the top, merge left onto a flat, dirt service road, follow it out, and take a hard left onto the singletrack. The next 0.75 miles are mostly downhill through an old growth forest. This trail is unmarked throughout the year, but there is ample flagging for the race. You can really open up and run fast here but the trail is narrow and passing can be difficult. Come out of the woods and cross back over the same footbridge you did a mile ago to arrive at The Old Mill AS, mile 3.8. This aid station is staffed by volunteers from the Finger Lakes Runners Club.
Old Mill to Underpass (3.6 miles)
Go up the short stone staircase next to the mill and follow the winding singletrack. You'll be on the white-blazed Finger Lakes Trail (FLT) briefly, with a small hill that most people will want to run up and over. At the first clearing, stay left and cross the newly rebuilt wooden bridge over Fishkill Creek. (This is different than in previous years and lops a quarter-mile off the section. You no longer run alongside the creek and then cross through it.)
Go straight onto the blue trail, turn left, and go up the dirt road (Butternut Creek Road) for 100 meters, then turn left into the woods. This will take you through a lush bed of pines and back out to the FLT.
From here you'll be following the FLT for the next 2.7 miles. This section is moderately technical, but it's predominately downhill and can be really fun to run. You'll cross two dirt roads near the end of this section, drop down a short but steep slope, run under the NY-13/34 highway, and arrive at The Underpass at mile 7.5. BATS will be buzzing around the tent recording bib numbers and filling bottles. (That's short for the Binghamton Area Trail Runners.) This is the best spot for a drop-bag if you only want to use one — you'll reach this aid station again around mile 18.5, giving you drop-bag access midway through each outbound and inbound part of the loop.
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| Most of the FLT in Treman looks like this. |
Underpass to Buttermilk (5.4 miles)
Leave the Underpass and continue on the FLT. Just around the corner from the AS you'll wade through the Cayuga Inlet. This year, expect the water level to be very low — 6-8 inches at the deepest. (If you need to cool down, walk about 30 feet downstream and to the left, where it will be deep enough to submerge youself.) Charge through the inlet and smile for the photographer while trying not to stumble. Note: Runners are not allowed to cross the water via the train tracks. The tracks are privately owned property — crossing on the tracks is considered trespassing and is against the race rules.
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| Don't expect the water to be any deeper than this. |
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| The Lick Brook ascent is steeper than it looks. |
Keep following orange across King Road, past the powerlines, and through the high grass. This part of the course can be daunting since scenery is lacking. It can also get really hot later in the day since there's no tree cover, but at least it's flat.
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| Run straight across the top of the dam. |
Come off the dam, turn right, and go down the slope consisting of an old, chewed up road alongside a small waterfall. You may encounter runners coming in the other direction. The next 1.7 miles to the Buttermilk AS are fast and easy, so get ready to open your stride. At the bottom of the slope, turn right to run through the grass, following the edge of Buttermilk Creek through the picnic area. Cross the creek on the wooden planks and continue on the flat, paved park road for half a mile. Usually there's not much traffic on this road, but running in the dirt along the edge is less painful than running on asphalt. This is the only paved part of the course aside from straight road crossings between trailheads.
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| More stairs as you circle Lake Treman. |
Buttermilk to Underpass (5.6 miles)
You'll be returning to The Underpass for the next stop, but the inbound route is (mostly) different than the outbound route. Start by ascending the Gorge Trail. This trail has a lot of steep steps and dirt sections, some of which are fairly technical. Don't worry about trying to run up the gorge unless your an elite. Maintain a steady effort level and find a good rhythm. The first half of the 0.75 Gorge Trail climb is the toughest, then it begins to level out. If you take it easy on the lower part you can run the upper half of the trail. Watch out for hikers and slippery stone surfaces, and enjoy all the views of waterfalls and rock formations while you're at it.
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| Follow the creek up along the Gorge Trail. |
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| The Gorge Trail steps keep going up... |
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| ...and up... |
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| ...and up... |
Go up the incline and stay right, following the white-blazed trail around the lake's east side. There are rolling hills here that can feel tough on tired legs; this trail is mostly uphill but pretty smooth. Take notice of of the new wooden steps that Ian and his volunteer crew of trail workers built during the summer of 2017. You'll circle around Lake Treman, cross a small stone footbridge, and turn right to go back up the dirt service road and exit the park. This is the same place you entered the park earlier.
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| The incline toward Lake Treman. |
The next two miles will have two-way traffic as the course goes uphill as a very small grade, again following the orange-blazed trail. Go back through the exposed, grassy section to cross King Road, then turn left to follow the power lines and orange blazes. The next mile is downhill and runnable. Cross Town Line road at mile 17.1 to enter the woods for a steeper downhill mile. Instead of going down the tricky switchbacks on the blue trail (where you made that monster climb earlier), stay to the right and follow the white blazes all the way to The Underpass.
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| The orange trail has a lot of high grass that gets mowed for race day. |
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| Lick Brook descent down the FLT. |
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| Cross the Cayuga Inlet again in the other direction. |
Underpass to Old Mill (3.6 miles)
This section is the reverse of what you did earlier, so there will again be two-way traffic on a singletrack trail. Cross under the NY-13/34 highway and continue on the white-blazed FLT. You'll come to a sizable hill that's runnable, but save your energy and don't run it on Loop 1 if you expect to walk it on Loop 2. At mile 19.6 keep left by the lean-to to remain on the FLT. (Until this year, the course went along the dirt road to connect with the Rim Trail. Returning to the Old Mill via the FLT is new, and will lead to slightly slower times because the trail is more difficult than the smooth, wide Rim Trail. Don't expect to encounter many hikers on the FLT though.)
Follow the FLT until it connects with the blue spur trail — the exact reverse of the outbound section you did earlier. With this course change you won't have to slog up Lucifer's Steps. When the blue trail comes out to the dirt road, turn right to descend for 100 meters, then take another right at the bottom and recross the new wooden bridge. From here, follow the white blazes to the Old Mill.
Old Mill to North Shelter (3.9 miles Loop 1, 2.9 miles Loop 2)
The main challenge in the homestretch is dodging all the hikers. The Treman Gorge Trail is the most popular hiking trail in the area, and on a Saturday in the summertime it's guaranteed to be crowded. You'll encounter families, kids, and people with dogs, many of whom may not see or hear you coming until you're ready to pass. Use caution and remember to be respectful, even if you're feeling like death this late in the race. Loop 2 of the 50M is likely when you'll encounter the most people. There will also be outbound 50M runners during your first loop.
Remember that side loop that goes up the Red Pine and through the old growth forest? You'll do that loop in reverse, but only on Loop 1. Come off the loop, cross the footbridge, and turn left to proceed down the Gorge Trail. If it's your second loop, 50-milers will skip the mini-loop and instead go down the Gorge Trail immediately after leaving the Old Mill.
The Gorge Trail has a net descent of almost 500 feet, and most of it's on stairs. Enjoy the views of several more falls and a massive, vertical wall of shale and sandstone on your left. You'll run down all those stairs you went up in the first few miles, with a few short uphills on dirt. The last 0.75 miles is downhill on the grass and gravel service road, so you can choose to cruise in or sprint the last 800 meters like it's a track meet. Descend to the paved park road, turn left, and proceed to the finish line party. Marathoners will finish here and may commence partying. 50-milers will have an aid station (mile 26.0) and drop-bag access before setting out for another loop that's identical to the first.
Strava data from 2017:
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